Cosmetic cleanser formulation

ABSTRACT

A skin cleanser formulation, which is one of four components used in a cosmetic regime, is disclosed. Applying the regime to the skin increases epidermal cell turnover without skin irritation. The other three components used in the regime are a cream, a lotion, and a tonic.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates to one component for use in a novel cell renewalcosmetic regime, which regime increases the rate of cell turnoverwithout skin irritation.

In the natural renewing cycle of skin, cells are constantly being born,rising through the epidermal layers to the surface and falling off. Ayoung skin renews its surface layers every two to three weeks. A matureskin can take twice as long. And the longer this process takes, the morecells develop areas of weakness that cause a faster loss of naturalmoisture and the dry lifeless appearance that's found in older lookingskin.

Acceleration of natural cell renewal or turnover speeds the replacementof dead cells by new ones in the outer epidermal layer or stratumcorneum, thereby giving the skin a younger-looking appearance. The newercells are moist and fresh, replacing the old, dry cells on the surface.

Although irritation of the skin will increase the sloughing off of deadstratum corneum cells, such irritation is undesirable because of thedamage to the skin. It is, therefore, desirable to increase cellturnover without irritation.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is, therefore, an object of the present invention to provide a skincleanser formulation, which is one of four components for use in acosmetic regime. The regime's use increases epidermal cell turnoverwithout skin irritation. The other three components for use in theregime are: a cream, a lotion, and a tonic.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

In accordance with this invention there is provided a skin cleanserformulation, which is one of four components for use in a cosmeticregime. The use of the regime increases cell turnover without causingskin irritation. The regime consists of the application to the skin of acleanser, a cream, a lotion, and a tonic. Each of the three othercomponents is a separate invention; the cream is claimed in applicationSer. No. 179,626, filed of even date herewith, the lotion is claimed inapplication Ser. No. 179,629, also filed of even date herewith; and thetonic is claimed in application Ser. No. 179,624, filed of even dateherewith. The use of the four components in a regime to increase cellturnover without causing skin irritation is claimed in application Ser.No. 179,627, filed of even date herewith.

The preferred regime usually begins in the morning with the use of thetonic, followed by the lotion. Later, usually at night, the cleanser isused, and then the tonic and cream are applied. However, the order andthe timing of the use of the four products can be varied to suitindividual needs. For example, the cleanser also can be used in themorning. Some effect will be obtained even if all the compositions arenot used or if there is a delay between usage.

The cleanser formulation consists essentially of, in percent by weight:

    ______________________________________                                        Ingredients              Percent                                              ______________________________________                                        deionized water          39.73                                                propylene glycol         6.00                                                 magnesium aluminum silicate                                                                            1.10                                                 sodium carboxymethyl cellulose                                                                         0.10                                                 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20                                                 imidazolidinyl urea      0.30                                                 ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid                                                                        0.02                                                 sodium N-lauryl-β-iminodipropionate                                                               4.00                                                 titanium dioxide         0.75                                                 sodium isostearoyl-2-lactylate                                                                         2.00                                                 soya sterols             1.00                                                 polyoxyethylene (10) soya sterols                                                                      2.50                                                 polyoxyethylene (3) myristyl ether myristate                                                           8.00                                                 polyoxypropylene (15) stearyl ether                                                                    8.00                                                 heavy mineral oil        8.00                                                 propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate                                         (80/20 to 50/50)        7.00                                                 cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol)                                                                          4.00                                                 stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol)                                                                        2.00                                                 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.10                                                 glyceryl monostearate and polyethylene                                         glycol (100) monostearate                                                                             2.00                                                 triple pressed stearic acid                                                                            2.50                                                 lactic acid              0.10                                                 fragrance                0.60                                                 ______________________________________                                    

In general, the individual ingredients used in the formulation should beof quality or purity (such as U.S.P. or N.F.) suitable for cosmetic use.

The formulation of this invention is prepared by mixing the ingredientsaccording to conventional methods. The preparation of this formulationis described in the following example. The example is illustrative ofthe formulation embraced by the invention, but is not to be construed aslimiting the invention.

EXAMPLE 1 Cleanser

Formulation:

    ______________________________________                                                                        Percent                                                                       by                                            Phase  Ingredient               weight                                        ______________________________________                                        A      Deriphat 160C (Velvetex 610-L, Henkel,                                        sodium N-lauryl-β-iminodipropionate)                                                              4.00                                                 titanium dioxide, atlas white                                                                          0.75                                          B      Veegum K (R.T. Vanderbilt, magnesium                                          aluminum silicate)       1.10                                                 Sodium CMC-7MF (Hercules, sodium                                              carboxymethyl cellulose) 0.10                                          C      propylene glycol         6.00                                          D      deionized water          39.73                                         E      methylparaben (methyl p-hydroxy-                                              benzoate)                0.20                                                 imidazolidinyl urea      0.30                                                 EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic                                              acid)                    0.02                                          F      Pationic ISL (Patco Products, sodium                                          isostearoyl-2-lactylate) 2.00                                                 soyl sterol              1.00                                                 POE (10) soya sterol (polyoxyethylene                                         (10) soya sterols)       2.50                                                 Standamul 1414E (Henkel, polyoxy-                                             ethylene (3) myristyl ether                                                   myristate)               8.00                                                 POP (15) stearyl ether (polyoxy-                                              propylene (15) stearyl ether)                                                                          8.00                                                 heavy mineral oil        8.00                                                 propylene glycol dicaprylate/di-                                              caprate (80/20 to 50/50) 7.00                                                 cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol)                                                                          4.00                                                 stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol)                                                                        2.00                                                 propylparaben (propyl p-hydroxy-                                              benzoate)                0.10                                                 Arlacel 165 (ICI, glyceryl monostearate                                       and polyethylene glycol (100) mono-                                           stearate                 2.00                                                 triple pressed stearic acid                                                                            2.50                                          G      lactic acid              0.10                                          H      Essence 66.001 (Firmenich, fragrance)                                                                  0.60                                          ______________________________________                                    

Procedure:

Phase A is prepared one day before the rest of the batch by adding thetitanium dioxide to the Deriphat 160C with constant mixing by aLightnin' mixer. Mixing is continued until a uniform mass is obtainedand the titanium dioxide is completely wetted. Phase A is aged overnightat room temperature.

A dry blend of the Phase B ingredients is prepared separately from PhaseA the next day. Phase B is then slowly added to Phase C, while mixingvigorously with a Lightnin' mixer. Phase BC is mixed continuously andthen added to Phase D. Phase BCD is mixed with a sweep agitator untilall the gum is dispersed.

The ingredients of Phase E are added one at a time to Phase BCD andmixed until all the powders are dissolved. Phase A is remixed thoroughlywith a Lightnin' mixer until uniform. Phase A is added to Phase BCDE,while mixing with sweep and side agitation for about 5 to 10 minutes.Afterwards Phase ABCDE is heated to about 80°-85° C. with continuedmixing.

Phase F is prepared in a separate container and heated to about 90°-95°C. Mixing and heating are continued until the soya sterols are meltedand the mixture is uniform. Phase F is then added to Phase ABCDE andmixed thoroughly.

Phase ABCDEF is then cooled to 60°-65° C. with continuous mixing, andthen Phase G is added. Everything is then mixed thoroughly with theside-sweep. Phase ABCDEFG is cooled to about 45°-50° C., and then PhaseH is added. The side-sweep is used to mix the phases, while the entiremixture is allowed to cool to room temperature. Mixing is continued withthe side-sweep for about 15-20 minutes and the mixture is transferredinto suitable stainless steel containers.

When the above-described formulations are used in accordance with themethod of this invention, the rate of skin cell turnover is increasedwithout skin irritation. The rate of skin cell turnover is frequentlyreported as transit time. Transit time is defined as the time requiredfor a newly formed stratum corneum cell to rise up through the stratumcorneum and finally slough off. Therefore, the less transit timerequired, the better the appearance of the skin, because younger cellsare on its surface.

The test for measuring transit time is described by L. H. Jansen, etal., "Improved Fluorescence Staining Technique for Estimating Turnoverof the Human Stratum Corneum," British Journal of Dermatology, 1974, 90,9-12. The transit or replacement time of the human stratum corneum isdetermined by measuring the number of days required for a fluorescentmarker, dansyl chloride, to disappear after application to the skin. Thedansyl chloride only stains the stratum corneum (outer cell layer) andthe shedding of the stratum corneum is signified by the disappearance ofthe dansyl chloride.

Using the Jansen procedure, the transit time of the present regime ismeasured and compared with the transit time of several commerciallyavailable, skin-care cosmetic products, identified as products A to E inTable I. Dansyl chloride is applied to both upper inner arms of eachsubject, after two weeks of pretreatment with the product. Then one armis treated daily with the particular product, while the other arm isuntreated. The number of days required for the dansyl chloride todisappear from each arm is then recorded. The results for the treatedarms are averaged for the particular product and compared to the averagefor the untreated arms. The results are shown in Table I. The larger thedifference between the control and treated times, the more effective isthe product.

The test was run using women from young (19-29 years) and middle (31-58years) age groups for products A-E and the regime.

The present regime consists of using all four components in thefollowing order: the cleanser and tonic were used in the morning,followed by the lotion; later, at night, the cleanser was used and thenthe tonic and cream were applied.

                  TABLE I                                                         ______________________________________                                                        Mean Transit Time.sup.a                                                    Number   Treated                                                              of       with     Control Dif-                                   Product      Subjects Product  (untreated)                                                                           ference                                ______________________________________                                        A            11       16.1     17.0    0.9                                    B            11       15.9     17.3    1.4                                    C            10       14.1     15.3    1.2                                    D            10       13.5     16.0    2.5                                    E            10       18.2     22.1    3.9                                    Regime                                                                        (young age group)                                                                           8       13.75    20.63   6.88                                   Regime                                                                        (middle age group)                                                                         12       15.67    22.08   6.41                                   ______________________________________                                         .sup.a in days                                                           

I claim:
 1. A skin cleanser formulation consisting essentially of, inpercent by weight:

    ______________________________________                                        Ingredients              Percent                                              ______________________________________                                        deionized water          39.73                                                propylene glycol         6.00                                                 magnesium aluminum silicate                                                                            1.10                                                 sodium carboxymethyl cellulose                                                                         0.10                                                 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20                                                 imidazolidinyl urea      0.30                                                 ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid                                                                        0.02                                                 sodium N-lauryl-β-iminodipropionate                                                               4.00                                                 titanium dioxide         0.75                                                 sodium isostearoyl-2-lactylate                                                                         2.00                                                 soya sterols             1.00                                                 polyoxyethylene (10) soya sterols                                                                      2.50                                                 polyoxyethylene (3) myristyl ether myristate                                                           8.00                                                 polyoxypropylene (15) stearyl ether                                                                    8.00                                                 heavy mineral oil        8.00                                                 propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate                                         (80/20 to 50/50)        7.00                                                 cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol)                                                                          4.00                                                 stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol)                                                                        2.00                                                 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.10                                                 glyceryl monostearate and polyethylene                                         glycol (100) monostearate                                                                             2.00                                                 triple pressed stearic acid                                                                            2.50                                                 lactic acid              0.10                                                 fragrance                0.60                                                 ______________________________________                                    